Kering's Profits Plunge as Gucci Sales Decline

Kering, the French luxury group, faced a challenging first quarter with Gucci's sales dropping by 10% due to slowing demand in Asia and brand restructuring, leading to a significant decline in the company's revenue and operating profit projections for the first half of the year.

Kering SA, the prestigious French luxury conglomerate known for its high-end brands such as Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, has encountered a significant downturn in its financial outlook, largely attributed to a decline in Gucci sales. The company witnessed a sharp drop in its shares, which fell more than 7%, following an issued profit warning that highlighted a concerning dip in performance during the first quarter.

The luxury fashion group pointed to a "considerably worsened" financial situation in the initial months of 2024, with a notable revenue decrease of 11% to €4.5 billion for the first quarter. This downturn has been largely blamed on a slowdown in demand from the Chinese market and ongoing restructuring efforts within its fashion houses, particularly Gucci. As a consequence of these challenges, Gucci experienced a significant sales reduction of 21%, leading Kering to brace for a stark reduction in operating profit for the first half of the year. The group is now expecting a decline in first-half recurring operating income in the range of 40-45% year on year.

The backdrop to this financial strife is attributed to what the company describes as a "normalization" in the luxury sector and transitions within its individual fashion houses. Additionally, currency fluctuations imposed a 3% impact. While Gucci's sales plummeted by 18% on a like-for-like basis, other brands within the Kering portfolio showcased a mixed performance. Yves Saint Laurent and other houses reported a decrease in sales by 6%, whereas Bottega Veneta saw a modest increase in sales by 2% on a like-for-like basis. Encouragingly, Kering Eyewear & Corporate segment witnessed a growth of 9%.

Amid these financial headwinds, Kering noted that Gucci's new collections, launched mid-February, have been receiving positive feedback, especially in the ready-to-wear and shoes categories. This could signal a potential rebound or at least offer some cushion against the financial turbulence experienced in the first quarter.

Geographically, the most significant sales drop was observed in the Asia-Pacific region, while trends in Western Europe, North America, and Japan remained consistent with the previous quarter's performance. This geographic breakdown further underscores the critical role the Asian market, particularly China, plays in the luxury sector's financial health.

As Kering SA navigates these challenging times, the group's firm commitment to investing in the long-term appeal and distinctiveness of its brands remains unchanged. However, the current financial predicaments indicate a testing period ahead for the luxury conglomerate, especially for its flagship brand Gucci, as it strives to recapture its lost momentum in the wake of waning Asian demand and strategic brand restructuring efforts.

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